As I try to put my ever pensive mind to paper, I realize how challenging it is to actually compose a fitting description of my experience since last I blogged. How do I try to capture the images that I see; the aromas of the road-side stalls, the singing voices of the Thai women selling their wares, the bouquet of coconut oil massaged into in my hair and body. I wish you could hear the night sounds as I swing on my hammock – the shrill ‘Ge-kow’ of the geckos in nearby trees, competing with the cadence of the beach bar near the shore…
I’m day five on the rustic island of Koh (island) Lanta in the South, a 4 1/2 hour ferry ride from Phuket, putting past the magnificent islands of Phi Phi, lying under the shadows of limestone cliffs and islets bordered with turquoise green bays. Multi-coloured longtail boats cart tourists from bay to bay who are eager to dive into the unspoilt underwater coral gardens.
Going back to 3 weeks ago, I so fondly recollect my sojourn in Koh Tao (Turtle island) that I cannot wait to go back again when Mom arrives. The premise for my trip two islands up from Koh Samui was a free diving voucher and night’s accommodation that we were offered as part of our TEFL teaching course. Having graduated from the 2 week course in Koh Samui on the Friday, and exhausted by the nights of homework and lesson preparations and jumping up and down with children, I looked forward to a week on the tiny island.
On the Monday, I took the ferry to Koh Tao, arriving at sunset. I got picked up by the dive centre and booked into my bungalow. The centre had a BBQ that night so I met some of the dive instructed and students, and had an early night. After my dive on the Tuesday – with a rather hunky Camel-man dive master and I remember looking into those deep green eyes magnified by his scuba mask down under the surface of the water – lol. I walked the beach at sunset ogling the quaintness of the bay opposed to the thronged beach side lounge areas, where farang sip cocktails and snack on sandwiches and rice dishes. I found myself a mat with its ground-level table and mattress lounger and plonked my tired physique down and ordered a Pina Colada for the showcase sunset. I did this every night for a week. The tiny village of Hat Sai ree is compacted with dive centres, massage parlors, clothes stalls, restaurants and coffee shops, garden and beachfront bungalows and the odd hotel and exclusive resort. The nightlife is mostly mellow – which I loved and that I felt suited the relaxed vibe. I drank mostly Sang-Som whiskey on my bungalow balcony, smelling the closeness of the sea and writing postcards to loved ones. On the Wednesday night I mossied along the beach and was lured onto a mattress lounger at Lotus Bar, listening fondly to a one-man band doing covers of Bob Dylan, Dave Matthews Band and Leonard Cohen, smiling deeply to myself and mouthing along to the words. After being offered a drink by a Scotsman and Australian pair sitting behind me, I joined them and we pretty much saw each other every evening after that. Jimmy the ‘heeh-land kew’ is a honey, married to a Thai women and operating a dive centre in Pattya. He’s a jolly man with a soft nature. Troy, whose incapability to stop calling me ‘sexy’ and his xenophobic bigotry became highly irksome and nauseating. I met lots of people, Dutch, Swede, French, but mostly Brits teaching diving, on holiday from teaching English in Bangkok, or just simply spending their pounds on a 3 month holiday (Who get’s a three month holiday?). I also met two guys from Japan who were great company the one night and would like to contact again when in Japan.
My week in Koh Tao was made full by my accommodation ON THE BEACH, where I listened to the lapping of the water and could nip in and out of my bungalow to swim.
The sea is warm - the sea in Koh Tao being the most reminiscent of Zanzibar’s azure colours. My week was also graced by the full moon, when most of the farang migrated to neighbouring Koh Panang for the debauchery, leaving the less manic to enjoy the fire poi and balloon lantern-lighting on a slightly lesser mushroom-infested scale! The clear waters made diving a wonder and I want to snorkel in the Japanese Gardens next time around!
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| View from my bungalow - Koh Tao |
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| The flood arising |
Needless to say it took 8 hours instead of 4 to get to Phuket, where I had two more interviews. I arrived in Phuket drenched – my sodden luggage weighted with rainwater and booked into my bohemian haven in Old Phuket town – Thalang Guesthouse. It was a relief to be back, greeted by the warm staff and shown my old room where I stayed when I first arrived in Phuket. Now it was down to ironed suits and CV, donning my widest smile for the interviews that awaited me that week. After what I can only recollect as a stressful and rain-soaked week, having to deal with early mornings and selling my best qualities to the school recruiting managers, I received a call 5 days later, on a Friday when the showers had ceased and the clouds receded to show the blue sky, that I was offered a position to teach preschool in a village 45minutes north of Old Town. That night I celebrated with Michael from the TEFL course, and woke up on the Saturday relaxed and excited to start seeking out an apartment to finally roost in.
While I’ve enjoyed the travelling and sight-seeing, I am every ready to settle into my own place, with my own bed and unpack my backpack and store it atop a cupboard for a few months. I do miss the comforts of home, my bed, my view of Table mountain, my Joe and my Lara… and also MY POTS AND PANS and cooking. When I can, I watch the Asian food channel, craving to resurrect the dishes and flavours of the Far East on my own, serving them up to friends and stageinga night of ‘Come dine with me’.
